I decided to give it one coat of Flat Haze over the entire model. It appeared a bit bright to me once out of the package and placed on the layout. I recently acquired an Oxford Models 1957 Dodge pickup in tropical coral. I have begun experimenting with fading of other layout features such as cars and trucks. This weathered Green Mountain boxcar looks right at home. On my White River Division layout, I run all my rolling stock and engines with some degree of weathering. When I placed my two models side by side the faded car stood out as a used piece of rolling stock which really appealed to me. I once again applied two coats of Flat Haze. I left one in the new out-of-the-box condition for comparison. My second attempt was on a Green Mountain Railway boxcar that I had two of. This model received two coats which really made the model stand out in my fleet. The first model I coated was an Athearn blue box GP-9 modeled as a Canadian National GR-17. My first jar of Flat Haze yielded 14 coats of paint on seven HO scale models which I think was a great value. A second coat was applied to complete the effect. I found that on dark colors such as black and some browns, one coat can be acceptable but on colors such as bright red, yellow and orange, more are required.įive minutes later and the milky appearance has almost all cleared. My models receive between two and three coats depending on the color. I experimented with applying more coats, but found more than three coats did not add to the effect. The milky color will begin to clear in just a few minutes. The first coat of Proto-Paint Flat hHaze has been applied to the Canadian National Geep shell. I waited at least five minutes between coats, giving the airbrush a quick spray of window cleaner between coats as the paint dries fairly quickly in the airbrush. It appears that one needs to apply at least two coats to get a well-faded look to one’s model. Dan mentioned leaving a freshly painted model 24 hours before attempting any masking. When the model was coated it had a milky appearance which began to fade in about five minutes to a flat faded look. I used 30 psi pressure and no thinning while using my airbrush. On my first attempt the paint flowed on very well. It sure sounded simple to me and I was eager now to give it a try. The weathering shades which the Flat Haze falls into dries to a flat finish.ĭan noted that Proto-Paint, being a high-quality railroad paint, can be sprayed right out of the bottle then cleaned up with household window cleaner. The line of paints is color-matched to real paint chips and dries to a decal-ready gloss finish. I had a chance to speak with Rapido’s Dan Darnell, the man behind the Proto-Paint line of water-based acrylics. Not too long after acquiring the paint I attended the Rapido dealers’ open house and barbecue with my friend Peter Mumby. I left the hobby shop with a jar of it to try out. The color used was in the weathering category called Flat Haze (no. It was a new product out back then called Proto-Paint by Rapido. I asked him what he used for the paint fading. I really was impressed with the weathering. (a great hobby shop near Toronto, Ontario), my friend Roger Chrysler showed me an engine that he did some custom work on for a customer. My first attempt using both products was great as they really make my models reflect years of fading.Ī few years back, while at Credit Valley Railroad Co. In the past few years I have come across two very simple procedures that anyone can master. This topic has been covered numerous times in the modeling press, but they all seem to be a two- or three-step process that requires a bit of practice and skill. One of the weathering effects that modelers seem to talk about on a regular basis is how one fades the paint colors on rolling stock and locomotives.
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